FAQs

We repair gas, tankless, and  electric water heaters.

Leaking and Clogged toilets, Dripping faucets, Sinks, Garbage disposal installs/repairs, Dishwasher and Washing Machine lines, Tubs & Showers, Clogged Drains, Water Heater Repairs and Installations- Gas, Electric, Tankless, Ice Maker lines, Ceiling leaks, Re-piping and pipe repairs, Outdoor Showers, Sewer Lines and Sewer Main Repairs and Installs, Remodels, Reroute Water Lines, Gas Lines- Gas Leak repairs, Sump Pumps, Camera Inspection, Leak detection, diagnosis, and repair, Fixture hookup and installation, as well as 24 Hour Emergency Services.

We are located at 117 Elk Dr. Unit G, Murrells Inlet, SC 29576.

At least once a year, ideally in spring before the cooling season. Coastal homes benefit from twice-yearly service because salt air and high humidity put extra strain on your system.

Salt in the air accelerates corrosion on the outdoor condenser coil and metal components. In Myrtle Beach, this can shorten equipment lifespan, which is why regular coil cleaning and protective coatings matter here more than inland.

Typically 10–15 years, but coastal units often last closer to 10–12 due to salt-air corrosion and heavy summer runtime. Regular maintenance is the biggest factor in reaching the higher end of that range.

It depends on square footage, insulation, ceiling height, and sun exposure — not just a rule of thumb. A professional load calculation (Manual J) is the only reliable way to size a unit correctly for our hot, humid climate.

Constant running is common during Myrtle Beach heat waves, but it can also signal a dirty filter, low refrigerant, an undersized unit, or a failing compressor. If your home isn't cooling despite the unit running nonstop, have it inspected.

Change your filter monthly, keep your thermostat around 78°F when home, use ceiling fans, seal air leaks, and schedule a tune-up. Coastal humidity makes efficiency losses add up fast, so small fixes save real money.

Your AC may be oversized and cycling off before it removes enough moisture, or it may be low on refrigerant. In humid Myrtle Beach summers, a properly sized system or a dedicated dehumidifier keeps indoor humidity in the comfortable 45–55% range.

Every 30 days during heavy-use summer months. Salt air, pollen, and constant AC runtime clog filters faster near the coast than in drier climates.

Don't fully wrap it, which traps moisture. Instead, turn the unit off at the breaker before the storm, clear debris, and secure the area. Covering the top only, with breathable material, is fine — but shutting it down and clearing loose objects matters most.

Do not turn it on if the outdoor unit was submerged or struck by debris. Have a technician inspect for water damage, electrical issues, and refrigerant leaks before restarting to avoid injury or further damage.

A musty smell usually means mold or mildew in the ductwork, drain pan, or evaporator coil — common in humid coastal climates. A cleaning and drain-line clearing typically solves it; persistent odors warrant a professional inspection.

Around 78°F when you're home and higher when you're away is the efficiency sweet spot. Every degree lower can raise cooling costs several percent, which adds up during long, hot beach summers.

Consider replacement if your unit is over 10–12 years old, needs frequent repairs, uses R-22 refrigerant, or drives up your energy bills. Newer, single-fault repairs on younger units usually make more sense to fix.

The most common cause is a clogged condensate drain line, which is frequent in humid Myrtle Beach homes. A frozen coil or damaged drain pan can also cause leaks. Turn the unit off and call a technician to prevent water damage.

Yes. Our mild winters and long cooling seasons make heat pumps highly efficient here, since they handle both heating and cooling well without the extreme cold that reduces their performance in northern climates.

Use quality filters, control humidity with a dehumidifier, keep ducts clean, and consider UV lights or air purifiers. Coastal humidity encourages mold and dust mites, so moisture control is the key to cleaner indoor air.

Common causes include low refrigerant, a dirty condenser coil, a tripped breaker, or a failing compressor. In summer heat, get it checked quickly — running a struggling system can cause more expensive damage.

Most residential replacements range from roughly $5,000 to $12,000 depending on system size, efficiency rating, and installation complexity. A professional in-home estimate gives you an accurate figure for your specific home.

Yes. Annual maintenance catches small problems early, maintains efficiency, extends equipment life, and often keeps your manufacturer warranty valid. In a corrosive coastal environment, skipping it noticeably shortens system lifespan.

Choose a licensed, local HVAC company that offers 24/7 emergency service and knows coastal systems. Local techs understand the salt-air and humidity issues specific to the Grand Strand, which speeds up accurate diagnosis.

Look for a licensed, local plumber offering 24/7 emergency service across the Grand Strand. Local plumbers know the area's hard water, high water table, and sandy soil conditions, which speeds up diagnosis when a pipe bursts or a sewer backs up.

Whole-house pressure loss usually points to a failing pressure regulator, a partially closed main valve, mineral buildup in older galvanized pipes, or a hidden leak. If it dropped suddenly rather than gradually, have it checked quickly — sudden loss often means a break.

Check the breaker or pilot light first, then the water heater's age. For electric units, a failed heating element is the most common cause; for gas units, it's usually the thermocouple or gas control valve. If the tank is over 10 years old and leaking, replacement is generally the better call.

Typically 8–12 years for tank models and up to 20 for tankless, but hard water and heavy vacation-rental use can shorten that on the Grand Strand. Annual flushing to clear sediment is the single biggest factor in reaching the high end of that range.

At least once a year, and twice a year if you're on hard water or running a rental property. Sediment buildup makes the unit work harder, raises energy use, and causes the popping or rumbling sounds many homeowners hear before a failure.

That sound is water bubbling up through sediment settled on the bottom of the tank. It's a sign the unit needs flushing, and if ignored it can lead to overheating, tank damage, and premature failure.

It may be a loose drain valve or a failing temperature-and-pressure relief valve, but a leak from the tank itself means the tank has corroded through and needs replacement. Shut off the water supply and power to the unit and call a plumber right away.

Most often it's a jam or a tripped internal reset button on the bottom of the unit. Coffee grounds, grease, fibrous vegetables, and shells are the usual culprits — and if the motor hums without turning, the impellers are stuck.

Start with a plunger or a drain snake rather than chemical cleaners, which damage pipes over time. Recurring clogs in beach homes are frequently sand and grit buildup from beach showers, which often needs professional drain cleaning to clear fully.

A worn flapper is the most common cause, followed by a misadjusted float or a failing fill valve. A single running toilet can waste hundreds of gallons a day, so it's worth fixing quickly — especially in a rental where no one's around to hear it.

Gurgling means air is escaping through the trap, usually from a blocked vent stack or a developing sewer line clog. If more than one fixture gurgles or drains slowly, the problem is likely in the main line and needs a professional look.

Common causes are a dried-out P-trap in a rarely used fixture, a broken toilet wax ring, or a blocked vent pipe. In coastal homes with seasonal occupancy, unused guest bathrooms are the frequent offender — running water in every fixture monthly prevents it.

The usual suspects are a running toilet, an irrigation leak, or a hidden supply line leak. Shut off every fixture and watch your water meter — if it's still moving, water is escaping somewhere and needs to be found.

Watch for unexplained bill increases, damp spots on floors or walls, a musty smell, or warm spots on slab floors. Plumbers use pressure testing, acoustic listening equipment, and thermal imaging to locate leaks without tearing up your home unnecessarily.

Warm or damp areas on the floor, the sound of running water with everything off, cracks in flooring, and rising water bills. Sandy Grand Strand soil shifts over time, which puts stress on under-slab lines, so slab leaks are more common here than in many inland markets.

Roots seek moisture and enter through small cracks or loose joints in older clay or cast-iron lines. Live oaks and mature landscaping along the coast make this common — a camera inspection confirms it, and hydro jetting or spot repair resolves it.

It's worth doing if you have repeat backups, slow drains throughout the house, or you're buying an older Grand Strand home. A camera shows exactly what's happening inside the line, so you're repairing the actual problem instead of guessing.

Yes — most Grand Strand water providers require annual backflow prevention testing on irrigation systems, and it has to be done by a certified tester. It protects your drinking water from lawn chemicals and keeps you compliant with local requirements.

Mineral content in Grand Strand water builds scale inside pipes, water heaters, and fixtures, reducing efficiency and shortening equipment life. Signs include spotty dishes, soap that won't lather, and reduced flow at faucets — a water softener or whole-house filtration system addresses it.

Run every fixture to refill traps and check for drips, verify the water heater is set correctly, look under sinks for moisture, and confirm the outdoor shower drains freely. Ten minutes of checks between turnovers prevents the mid-stay emergency call that costs you a review.